Jallikattu Ki Jai Ho......!

Jallikattu Ki Jai Ho....!

Ever since the protests against Jallikattu ban started doing the rounds on social media, I’ve been thinking about visiting Alanganalur, the most prestigious venue for Jallikattu, to have an in-depth, firsthand experience of what it’s all about this deadly sport considered to be one of the most dangerous sports in the world. I swear, much of what I saw and experienced at the venue was beyond what I can describe in words. Nonetheless, let me try anyway.

As I went to bed on Thursday night last week, I must admit that I was a little bit disappointed. Efforts made by one of my friends to get a special entry pass to the VIP gallery, could not get materialised as the organisers this time gave special preference to those students who took part in the protest march on Marina beach in Chennai to safeguard the centuries old traditional bull-taming spectacle of Tamil Nadu. I was so agog with excitement that I woke up an hour before I actually set my alarm at 4 a.m. I quickly ran through my morning ablutions, finished my prayers and headed towards my motorcycle in a flash grabbing my backpack and camera.  The night outside was pitch dark. With the chilly winter continuing in Tamil Nadu, the Madurai - Natham highway wore a deserted look. By the time I reached Oomachikulam and took a sharp left turn towards Sugar Factory Road,   the atmosphere turned extremely serene and calm. Scattered along both sides of the road were vast abandoned fields. There were no sounds or signs of civilisation anywhere. The silver face of the full moon was beaming down from the clear sky. Somewhere near Achampatty, I saw a police van swished past me with its blue and red lights flashing. That was the first indication of me nearing the venue, though I knew, I ‘am still a good five kilometres away from there.

As I went cruising past a small indication board stands at the village entrance, I realised, I’ am at Alanganalur, the historic, internationally renowned hotbed of Jallikattu events. I looked at my watch. It said five am. The sun had not yet risen, but the village of Alanganalur was full of life. Near the village intersection, a few youngsters in their motorcycles roared past me yelling and screaming out of enthusiasm.  From a distance I could hear the old patriotic Tamil film songs playing out loud from big speakers erected on wooden poles. Petty traders, push carts and other roadside vendors were found busy selling their products by taking advantage of an opportunity that comes their way once in an year. I parked my vehicle on a narrow street almost half a kilometre away from the main venue so I could easily locate my vehicle just in case I decide to leave early. A huge number of police personnel were seen practically on their toes controlling the vehicles and maintaining law and order with barricades erected at several places. I could see the crowd building up gradually on either side of the road. They poured in from all over the world. Every narrow streets leading to the “Vadi Vaasal”, the main venue, were full of enthusiastic onlookers. Whenever an odd bull paraded into the arena by it owners, people make way for him, fully aware of the fact that these bulls might attack an innocuous person without any provocation. There I got my first sight of a Jallikattu bull. With that great big hump on its back, large distinctive horns, forth dripping from his jowls, I thought, he was nothing but a demon in disguise.

The long but narrow boulevard leading to Vadi Vaasal was found fortified with barricades and galleries on both sides. Several people who had come from various places across Tamil Nadu and even from the neighbouring States of Kerala and Karnataka, started gathering in every available inch of space to get a vantage point to watch this spectacular event. Suddenly, I found myself standing right in front of the Vadi Vaasal, a small makeshift gate from where the bulls would be released. I was just walking along the barricade looking for a comfortable space when I accidently entered the main pit right in front of the Vadi Vaasal where the tamers would take a raging bull. Visitors are not usually allowed to enter this area. It was just a pleasant gift that came along to my surprise. I took a stroll down the pit which was cushioned with coconut husk and all those packed spectators and media men would have definitely thought I was some official from the Animal Welfare Department inspecting the arrangements. But, my efforts to get a suitable position to sit somewhere right in front of the Vadi Vaasal went in vain as every entry to nearby galleries were restricted by passes issued by the authorities. I was left with no option but to clamber up the left side gallery meant for general public erected a few yards away from the Vadi Vaasal.  I gave up my dream of taking some excellent photographs of the thrilling moments in front of Vadi Vaasal as I knew it was practically impossible to see anything from that range.

 By 6 am, when the first light of sun poured over the village of Alanganalur the entire make shift galleries near Vadi Vaasal got fully occupied by jeering audience. Seated next to me was a group of tourists from Tanjur. Once they came to know that I’am a Keralite, they made some arrangement at the end of the wooden platform from where, they said, I could get some good photographs. But I knew, they were wrong. With a camera not so sophisticated, such long distance photography would be technically difficult. But, I was just so overwhelmed by their love and affection. They provided me with some biscuits and water which I wouldn’t be getting in a VIP gallery. We soon turned into a peer group, stomping, cheering and jeering at every announcement made over the loudspeaker. There’s still two more hours left until the first bull would be released through the wicket gate. So we just continued our high spirit chatting. One of them pointed his finger towards a yellow towel suspended in the air atop the media gallery and said, “That flag indicates the boundary. Sort of finishing point. Once the bull crosses that flag, it cannot be touched. If a tamer cannot detain the bull in that space, the bull wins” 

“Interesting”, I thought. “It’s only just over some 75 yards available for the contestants to prove their mettle”

 An aged man, who I rightly figured out as the leader of the group was gawking at my camera. I smiled at him and we started off our conversation about the history of Jallikattu. He told me that, till a few years back, Karaikudi was more famous than Madurai for organising Jallikattu events. It was indeed a surprise piece of information for me. I was under the impression that the district of Madurai is the birth place of Jallikattu. All the four places much renowned for this sport, Alanganalur, Anvaniapuram,  Palamedu and Achampatti are in Madurai. He said, “Few other places in Tamil Nadu like, Tiruvapur near Pudukottai, Kondalampatti in Salem, Sravayal near Karaikudi, Kandupatti near Sivagangai, Vethanpatti near Pudukottai, Pallavarayanpatty near Cumbum are also much famous for Jallikattu”. 

Legend says, Jallikattu is one of the oldest surviving ancient sports being conducted in modern era. Derived from the name “Salli kaassu” (coins) and Kattu (sort of package) which refers to the gold or silver coins which would be tied around the bull's neck or on the horns as prize money, this sport has been practised for thousands of years in Tamil Nadu and finds mention in Sangam literature which dates back to as early as 200 BC. Whoever managed to clutch the bull by its hump and subdue it would collect the money. With a history of over 2500 years, this sport is still venerated by Tamils as a symbol of their martial tradition and Tamil heritage.  In ancient times, this game was primarily played to select grooms for the women folk. A successful matador would win the hands of bull owners’ daughter. Now, centuries later, this game is played by farming communities in Tamil Nadu to handpick the strongest bulls as studs for their cows so that, they can ensure perfect next generation calves.

I do, however, think that there is something more substantial behind this sport. What is truly most important is not what is mentioned above. We all know, Tamils are known for their open flaunting of bravery and heroism. Other ancient sports of Tamil origin like Silambattam and Sadugudu are the most logical argument in substantiation of this theory. These sports are all based on bravery. Jallikattu, a sport affirms the macho tradition of masculinity which helps a person to flaunt his bravery in front of others is no exception. Nonetheless, we should not belittle their courage and stubbornness. Standing in front of a raging bull, not afraid to getting hurt or even die is no mean feat at all.

 But then, what’s so special about Jallikattu bulls...why are they so angry? Why can’t we use a horse or a donkey or for that matter a cow in their place?

As a matter of fact, the bulls are naturally aggressive due to some chemical substances such as testosterone in their body. This hormone is primarily responsible for the development of secondary male characteristics, like elevated aggression and higher pain tolerance. Bulls and Buffalos are herd animals and they challenge and fight each other in their natural habitat for obtaining mates. The winner is obviously the strongest and most aggressive whose genes will be passed on to the progeny. Cape buffalos, as we all know are infamous for their pugnacious behaviour. Even Lions would think twice before attacking a full grown Cape buffalo. Likewise, our own Jallikattu bulls, particularly the Kangayam breed belongs to a few specific breeds of cattle that are very aggressive by nature. They are more ferocious and muscular than any of their counterparts. Therefore these bulls attack, not because they are ill treated, agitated or trained to be aggressive, as many people think, but they are naturally aggressive. 

Let’s come back to Alanganalur again. 

The spectators grew more and more excited with every passing moment. As the time ticked closer to 8 o’clock, it reached its zenith. And finally, there was an outburst of applause as the announcement began from the organiser’s block indicating the start of event. . Suddenly someone shouted, pointing his fingers towards the extreme left end of the boulevard, “They are coming, They are coming” and every men standing all along the barricades, on the sides of it and others who were seated in the makeshift galleries stood up with a buzz of excitement as a group of hundred men marched through the narrow path amidst cheers and thunderous applause from audience. They acknowledge the greetings and waved back affectionately.

 “The bull tamers” said the old man with excitement burning in his eyes.

 I found them to be quite ordinary men, like all of us, like other people we know. And I even felt like, these guys, at least few of them, were too young to be called a “matador”. Lean and skinny, I must say, I’ am a bit surprised how these guys are going to subdue a monster bull weighing more than 1000 kilos, charging towards them at an incredible speed of 40 kilometre per hour like a raging tornado. But then, there are some ordinary people who always chose to do extraordinary things. 

All members of the group wore black shorts and Green T-Shirts as their uniform.  A palpable sense of excitement filled the air as they strode into the arena and assembled in front of Vadi Vaasal in small groups. It seemed, all of them had dreamt for this day for so long. But at the same time, it was evident from their grim faces that they are fully aware of the potentially dangerous ramifications of one simple wrong move. With a reported death toll of more than 1100 participants since 2010, they do understand, in this gamble, to be lackadaisical is suicidal. 

All eyes and cameras were now focussed on the narrow entry point called Vadi Vaasal through which the first bull would be released soon. 

“Once a bull is paraded into the wicket gate and its nose rope is removed, the animal becomes a devil. No one dares to go near him, not even its owner. For the next few minutes, until he is tied up again, this ferocious bull behaves like an unleashed tornado ripping apart everything in its path”, old man said in a grim voice. 

 “Here comes the first bull”. Crowd went berserk as the first bull stormed out of the Vadi Vaasal and like a thunderbolt, he whizzed past the yellow flag in the blink of an eye. Not a single contestant could touch him. The proud owner of the bull and his associates chased after him towards the exit gate carrying a large vessel, a gold coin and some clothes they received as prizes. 

And then came the next bull. I saw the audience moving their heads side to side or stretching their neck upward to catch a glimpse of what was happening. I realised, unless you are over 7 foot tall, you will not be able to see much of the action from the galleries that are erected on the left side of the Vadi Vaasal. Much of the performance is completely missed by the majority of the audience. The organisers by introducing some simple changes would have solved this problem, like erecting oval shape galleries for the spectators.  The present arrangement is indeed a really poor stage design which only helps to take away all the pleasures and joy of watching an exhilarating action sport. 

“Here comes the next bull” screamed the announcer “Catch him if you can”. 

There were whistles and cheers all around. A monster bull, waving his terrifyingly large horns, pounced forward and ran recklessly towards the exit. He knocked down a few contestants, leaving one of them severely injured in his eyes. The fire and rescue volunteers immediately rushed to the spot and shifted him to a nearby hospital in an ambulance. I counted at least five such shifting during my stay there for approximately two hours. This sport, I realised, is really bloody. A question thronged into my mind; why should the organisers and the government allow such a huge number of contestants to participate in this event?  If you want my two cents worth, then I think, only the trained and fit persons, nominated by the local village administration or other such bodies should be allowed to take part in this event. In many cases, it’s observed that, those who sneak into the arena just for the sake of participation and always took evasive action to avoid the bull are the ones who are more likely to suffer grievous injuries.. 

Bulls giving a slip to the tamers were the last thing the thousands who gathered around the Vadi Vaasal wanted to see. Though majority of the bulls ran swiftly from Vadi Vaasal towards the exit point without much resistance, a few who stepped forward impressively and stood long in the pit with their fearful horns swaying from side to side and humps jutted above the height of many contestants,  took the audience by storm.  Sometimes it came as an entertainment for the crowd when an odd bull chose to return back or spend some time wandering here and there. Crowd oblige them with applause and whistles until its owner took him out of the scene.  And the crowd go berserk whenever they saw a challenger lunges off to grab a majestic bull by its hump and holds on to it with all his strength. Such an action then starts a chain reaction that spreads across the entire atmosphere.  That’s what Jallikattu is all about. 

Oh, God !He was a magnificent bull. 

He stood rooted to the spot, scrapping the ground with its hooves, snorting fiercely and waving his horns aimlessly in every direction as it turned. Nobody knew in which direction he would charge next. Scattered in all directions, the contestants stood waiting for an opportunity. Suddenly he spun around swiftly to face someone who tried to approach him furtively from behind. He waved his horns menacingly and took a few steps forward. The contestant stood completely still with his arms stretched out and ready to dive. A small movement or a gesture from anywhere was enough for the bull to leap in that direction.  Another man tried to divert the bull’s attention from behind by making some sound. The bull turned around abruptly, lowered its face and stood scowling at him. He kept turning his head alternately in both directions, as if he was confused as to which man he should target first.  It is always terrifying sometimes when an odd bull refuse to leave the scene and determined to not even budge a fraction of an inch, come what may. No one, even its owners would dare to go near him. Thrusting his horns at anyone who dares come close, he stood there. He was not the kind of bull which would give away that easily. The next moment, a strong, well built looking man came out of nowhere and pounced on the bull from the side. He flung his right arm over the bull’s hump with all his strength, holding the left horn of the bull with the other.  The massive crowd went wild. They cheered and shouted. The man hugged the bull close to his chest and kept his head away to not to let the horns hit him in the face. For the bull, this sudden action proved to be a shocker. Waving his horns furiously he leapt in the air a few times. But the man’s grip was too tight. His body swung in the air as the bull sprung up and leapt again and again. Finally when the man released his hold and the bull decided to leave the scene though with a hurt pride, the crowd jumped to their feet and a thunderous applause followed.  The spectators got what they wanted in the end. It was uncontrollable frenzy of joy all around. The entire episode lasted only a few seconds but the impact was huge. The man took a small victory lap amidst loud cheers and whistles from the spectators. His teammates patted his back. To them and all those who had accompanied him from his village, he had become an instant hero. He may get a moped or a bicycle or a fan for all his heroic actions. But he cannot afford to relax and become complacent. The threat and the challenge were not over. He and his team mates need to regroup where they were standing before the next bull is let out. This will continue for hours, the whole day. 

It was one of the most exhilarating and thrilling experiences of my life. Iam now one of many who have been previliged to see one of the bloodiest and most dangerous sports in the world. Just before leaving the arena, I took a stroll around to the rear of Vadi Vaasal and found the stuff happening in the background is as exciting as things happening in front. I found several terrifyingly large bulls were assembled there under the strict supervision of authorities, waiting for their turn to be released one by one. A few others were marched into a clearing, led by their proud owners, for a mandatory medical examination by veterinarians. Tied to trees, a few bulls were spotted snorting and stomping their hooves restlessly. 

It was an experience I will never forget. Myself and my camera captured a few moments that I’am sure, will stay with me for the rest of my life, thanks to the policemen who allowed me to enter the otherwise restricted area.

Next day, I read in newspaper that nearly 50000 spectators gathered near Vadi Vaasal from various parts of the state to watch the show. As many as 550 bulls and 1050 bull tamers participated in the event.

As a person who has had an in-depth firsthand experience, let me categorically state that there is nothing controvertible about Jallikattu. I found no bulls were harmed on that day. Barring the few initial jitters and uneasiness, they were not found frightened about venturing into the arena. Let this sport continue.

Jallikattu Ki Jai Ho.....!

Jallikattu Ki Jai Ho.......!