Jallikattu Ki Jai
Ho....!
Ever since the protests against Jallikattu ban started doing
the rounds on social media, I’ve been thinking about visiting Alanganalur, the
most prestigious venue for Jallikattu, to have an in-depth, firsthand experience
of what it’s all about this deadly sport considered to be one of the most
dangerous sports in the world. I swear, much of what I saw and experienced at
the venue was beyond what I can describe in words. Nonetheless, let me try
anyway.
As I went to bed on Thursday night last week, I must admit that I was a little bit disappointed. Efforts made by one of my friends to get
a special entry pass to the VIP gallery, could not get materialised as the
organisers this time gave special preference to those students who took part in
the protest march on Marina beach in Chennai to safeguard the centuries
old traditional bull-taming spectacle of Tamil Nadu. I was so agog with
excitement that I woke up an hour before I actually set my alarm at 4 a.m.
I quickly ran through my morning ablutions, finished my prayers and headed
towards my motorcycle in a flash grabbing my backpack and camera. The night outside was pitch dark. With the
chilly winter continuing in Tamil Nadu, the Madurai - Natham highway wore a
deserted look. By
the time I reached Oomachikulam and took a sharp left turn towards Sugar
Factory Road, the atmosphere turned
extremely serene and calm. Scattered along both sides of the road were vast
abandoned fields. There were no sounds or signs of civilisation anywhere. The
silver face of the full moon was beaming down from the clear sky. Somewhere
near Achampatty, I saw a police van swished past me with its blue and red
lights flashing. That was the first indication of me nearing the venue, though
I knew, I ‘am still a good five kilometres away from there.
As I went cruising past a small indication board stands at
the village entrance, I realised, I’ am at Alanganalur, the historic,
internationally renowned hotbed of Jallikattu events. I looked at my watch. It
said five am. The sun had not yet risen, but the village of Alanganalur was
full of life. Near the village intersection, a few youngsters in their
motorcycles roared past me yelling and screaming out of enthusiasm. From a distance I could hear the old
patriotic Tamil film songs playing out loud from big speakers erected on wooden
poles. Petty traders, push carts and other roadside vendors were found busy
selling their products by taking advantage of an opportunity that comes their
way once in an year. I parked my vehicle on a narrow street almost half a
kilometre away from the main venue so I could easily locate my vehicle just in
case I decide to leave early. A huge number of police personnel were seen
practically on their toes controlling the vehicles and maintaining law and
order with barricades erected at several places. I could see the crowd building
up gradually on either side of the road. They poured in from all over the
world. Every narrow streets leading to the “Vadi Vaasal”, the main venue, were
full of enthusiastic onlookers. Whenever an odd bull paraded into the arena by
it owners, people make way for him, fully aware of the fact that these bulls
might attack an innocuous person without any provocation. There I got my first
sight of a Jallikattu bull. With that great big hump on its back, large
distinctive horns, forth dripping from his jowls, I thought, he was nothing but
a demon in disguise.
The long but narrow boulevard leading to Vadi Vaasal was
found fortified with barricades and galleries on both sides. Several people who
had come from various places across Tamil Nadu and even from the neighbouring
States of Kerala and Karnataka, started gathering in every available inch of
space to get a vantage point to watch this spectacular event. Suddenly, I found
myself standing right in front of the Vadi Vaasal, a small makeshift gate from
where the bulls would be released. I was just walking along the barricade
looking for a comfortable space when I accidently entered the main pit right in
front of the Vadi Vaasal where the tamers would take a raging bull. Visitors
are not usually allowed to enter this area. It was just a pleasant gift that
came along to my surprise. I took a stroll down the pit which was cushioned
with coconut husk and all those packed spectators and media men would have
definitely thought I was some official from the Animal Welfare Department
inspecting the arrangements. But, my efforts to get a suitable position to sit
somewhere right in front of the Vadi Vaasal went in vain as every entry to
nearby galleries were restricted by passes issued by the authorities. I was left
with no option but to clamber up the left side gallery meant for general public
erected a few yards away from the Vadi Vaasal.
I gave up my dream of taking some excellent photographs of the thrilling
moments in front of Vadi Vaasal as I knew it was practically impossible to see
anything from that range.
By 6 am, when the
first light of sun poured over the village of Alanganalur the entire make shift
galleries near Vadi Vaasal got fully occupied by jeering audience. Seated next
to me was a group of tourists from Tanjur. Once they came to know that I’am a
Keralite, they made some arrangement at the end of the wooden platform from
where, they said, I could get some good photographs. But I knew, they were
wrong. With a camera not so sophisticated, such long distance photography would
be technically difficult. But, I was just so overwhelmed by their love and
affection. They provided me with some biscuits and water which I wouldn’t be
getting in a VIP gallery. We soon turned into a peer group, stomping,
cheering and jeering at every announcement made over the loudspeaker. There’s
still two more hours left until the first bull would be released through the
wicket gate. So we just continued our high spirit chatting. One of them pointed
his finger towards a yellow towel suspended in the air atop the media gallery
and said, “That flag indicates the boundary. Sort of finishing point. Once the
bull crosses that flag, it cannot be touched. If a tamer cannot detain the bull
in that space, the bull wins”
“Interesting”, I thought. “It’s only just over some 75 yards
available for the contestants to prove their mettle”
An aged man, who I
rightly figured out as the leader of the group was gawking at my camera. I
smiled at him and we started off our conversation about the history of
Jallikattu. He told me that, till a few years back, Karaikudi was more famous
than Madurai for organising Jallikattu events. It was indeed a surprise piece
of information for me. I was under the impression that the district of Madurai
is the birth place of Jallikattu. All the four places much renowned for this
sport, Alanganalur, Anvaniapuram,
Palamedu and Achampatti are in Madurai. He said, “Few other places in
Tamil Nadu like, Tiruvapur near Pudukottai, Kondalampatti in Salem, Sravayal
near Karaikudi, Kandupatti near Sivagangai, Vethanpatti near Pudukottai,
Pallavarayanpatty near Cumbum are also much famous for Jallikattu”.
Legend says,
Jallikattu is one of the oldest surviving ancient sports being conducted in
modern era. Derived from the name “Salli kaassu” (coins) and Kattu (sort of
package) which refers to the gold or silver coins which would be tied around
the bull's neck or on the horns as prize money, this sport has been practised
for thousands of years in Tamil Nadu and finds mention in Sangam literature
which dates back to as early as 200 BC. Whoever managed to clutch the bull by
its hump and subdue it would collect the money. With a history of over 2500
years, this sport is still venerated by Tamils as a symbol of their martial
tradition and Tamil heritage. In
ancient times, this game was primarily played to select grooms for the women
folk. A successful matador would win the hands of bull owners’ daughter. Now,
centuries later, this game is played by farming communities in Tamil
Nadu to handpick the strongest bulls as studs for their cows so that, they can
ensure perfect next generation calves.
I do, however, think
that there is something more substantial behind this sport. What is truly most
important is not what is mentioned above. We all know, Tamils are known for
their open flaunting of bravery and heroism. Other ancient sports of Tamil
origin like Silambattam and Sadugudu are the most logical argument in
substantiation of this theory. These sports are all based on bravery.
Jallikattu, a sport affirms the macho tradition of masculinity which helps a
person to flaunt his bravery in front of others is no exception. Nonetheless,
we should not belittle their courage and stubbornness. Standing in front of a
raging bull, not afraid to getting hurt or even die is no mean feat at all.
But then, what’s so special about Jallikattu
bulls...why are they so angry? Why can’t we use a horse or a donkey or for that
matter a cow in their place?
As a matter of fact,
the bulls are naturally aggressive due to some chemical substances such as
testosterone in their body. This hormone is primarily responsible for the
development of secondary male characteristics, like elevated aggression and
higher pain tolerance. Bulls and Buffalos are herd animals and they challenge
and fight each other in their natural habitat for obtaining mates. The winner
is obviously the strongest and most aggressive whose genes will be passed on to
the progeny. Cape buffalos, as we all know are infamous for their pugnacious
behaviour. Even Lions would think twice before attacking a full grown Cape
buffalo. Likewise, our own Jallikattu bulls, particularly the Kangayam breed
belongs to a few specific breeds of cattle that are very aggressive by nature.
They are more ferocious and muscular than any of their counterparts. Therefore
these bulls attack, not because they are ill treated, agitated or trained to be
aggressive, as many people think, but they are naturally aggressive.
Let’s come back to
Alanganalur again.
The spectators grew
more and more excited with every passing moment. As the time ticked closer to 8
o’clock, it reached its zenith. And finally, there was an outburst of applause
as the announcement began from the organiser’s block indicating the start of event. . Suddenly someone shouted, pointing his fingers towards the extreme
left end of the boulevard, “They are coming, They are coming” and every men
standing all along the barricades, on the sides of it and others who were
seated in the makeshift galleries stood up with a buzz of excitement as a group
of hundred men marched through the narrow path amidst cheers and thunderous
applause from audience. They acknowledge the greetings and waved back
affectionately.
“The bull tamers” said the old man with
excitement burning in his eyes.
I found them to be quite ordinary men, like all
of us, like other people we know. And I even felt like, these guys, at least
few of them, were too young to be called a “matador”. Lean and skinny, I must
say, I’ am a bit surprised how these guys are going to subdue a monster bull
weighing more than 1000 kilos, charging towards them at an incredible speed of
40 kilometre per hour like a raging tornado. But then, there are some ordinary
people who always chose to do extraordinary things.
All members of the
group wore black shorts and Green T-Shirts as their uniform. A palpable sense of excitement filled the air
as they strode into the arena and assembled in front of Vadi Vaasal in small
groups. It seemed, all of them had dreamt for this day for so long. But at the
same time, it was evident from their grim faces that they are fully aware of
the potentially dangerous ramifications of one simple wrong move. With a
reported death toll of more than 1100 participants since 2010, they do
understand, in this gamble, to be lackadaisical is suicidal.
All eyes and cameras
were now focussed on the narrow entry point called Vadi Vaasal through which
the first bull would be released soon.
“Once a bull is
paraded into the wicket gate and its nose rope is removed, the animal becomes a
devil. No one dares to go near him, not even its owner. For the next few
minutes, until he is tied up again, this ferocious bull behaves like an
unleashed tornado ripping apart everything in its path”, old man said in a grim
voice.
“Here comes the first bull”. Crowd went
berserk as the first bull stormed out of the Vadi Vaasal and like a
thunderbolt, he whizzed past the yellow flag in the blink of an eye. Not a
single contestant could touch him. The proud owner of the bull and his
associates chased after him towards the exit gate carrying a large vessel, a
gold coin and some clothes they received as prizes.
And then came the
next bull. I saw the audience moving their heads side to side or stretching
their neck upward to catch a glimpse of what was happening. I realised, unless you
are over 7 foot tall, you will not be able to see much of the action from the
galleries that are erected on the left side of the Vadi Vaasal. Much of the
performance is completely missed by the majority of the audience. The
organisers by introducing some simple changes would have solved this problem,
like erecting oval shape galleries for the spectators. The present arrangement is indeed a really
poor stage design which only helps to take away all the pleasures and joy of
watching an exhilarating action sport.
“Here comes the next
bull” screamed the announcer “Catch him if you can”.
There were whistles
and cheers all around. A monster bull, waving his terrifyingly large horns,
pounced forward and ran recklessly towards the exit. He knocked down a few
contestants, leaving one of them severely injured in his eyes. The fire and
rescue volunteers immediately rushed to the spot and shifted him to a nearby
hospital in an ambulance. I counted at least five such shifting during my stay
there for approximately two hours. This sport, I realised, is really bloody. A
question thronged into my mind; why should the organisers and the government
allow such a huge number of contestants to participate in this event? If you want my two cents worth, then I think,
only the trained and fit persons, nominated by the local village administration
or other such bodies should be allowed to take part in this event. In many
cases, it’s observed that, those who sneak into the arena just for the sake of
participation and always took evasive action to avoid the bull are the ones who
are more likely to suffer grievous injuries..
Bulls giving a slip
to the tamers were the last thing the thousands who gathered around the Vadi
Vaasal wanted to see. Though majority of the bulls ran swiftly from Vadi Vaasal
towards the exit point without much resistance, a few who stepped forward
impressively and stood long in the pit with their fearful horns swaying from
side to side and humps jutted above the height of many contestants, took the audience by storm. Sometimes it came as an entertainment for the
crowd when an odd bull chose to return back or spend some time wandering here
and there. Crowd oblige them with applause and whistles until its owner took
him out of the scene. And the crowd go
berserk whenever they saw a challenger lunges off to grab a majestic bull by
its hump and holds on to it with all his strength. Such an action then starts a
chain reaction that spreads across the entire atmosphere. That’s what Jallikattu is all about.
Oh, God !He was a magnificent
bull.
He stood rooted to
the spot, scrapping the ground with its hooves, snorting fiercely and waving
his horns aimlessly in every direction as it turned. Nobody knew in which
direction he would charge next. Scattered in all directions, the contestants
stood waiting for an opportunity. Suddenly he spun around swiftly to face
someone who tried to approach him furtively from behind. He waved his horns
menacingly and took a few steps forward. The contestant stood completely still
with his arms stretched out and ready to dive. A small movement or a gesture
from anywhere was enough for the bull to leap in that direction. Another man tried to divert the bull’s
attention from behind by making some sound. The bull turned around abruptly,
lowered its face and stood scowling at him. He kept turning his head
alternately in both directions, as if he was confused as to which man he should
target first. It is always terrifying
sometimes when an odd bull refuse to leave the scene and determined to not even
budge a fraction of an inch, come what may. No one, even its owners would dare
to go near him. Thrusting his horns at anyone who dares come close, he stood
there. He was not the kind of bull which would give away that easily. The next
moment, a strong, well built looking man came out of nowhere and pounced on the
bull from the side. He flung his right arm over the bull’s hump with all his
strength, holding the left horn of the bull with the other. The massive crowd went wild. They cheered and
shouted. The man hugged the bull close to his chest and kept his head away to
not to let the horns hit him in the face. For the bull, this sudden action
proved to be a shocker. Waving his horns furiously he leapt in the air a few
times. But the man’s grip was too tight. His body swung in the air as the bull
sprung up and leapt again and again. Finally when the man released his hold and
the bull decided to leave the scene though with a hurt pride, the crowd jumped
to their feet and a thunderous applause followed. The spectators got what they wanted in the
end. It was uncontrollable frenzy of joy all around. The entire episode lasted
only a few seconds but the impact was huge. The man took a small victory lap
amidst loud cheers and whistles from the spectators. His teammates patted his
back. To them and all those who had accompanied him from his village, he had
become an instant hero. He may get a moped or a bicycle or a fan for all his
heroic actions. But he cannot afford to relax and become complacent. The threat
and the challenge were not over. He and his team mates need to regroup where
they were standing before the next bull is let out. This will continue for
hours, the whole day.
It was one of the
most exhilarating and thrilling experiences of my life. Iam now one of many who
have been previliged to see one of the bloodiest and most dangerous sports in
the world. Just before leaving the arena, I took a stroll around to the rear of
Vadi Vaasal and found the stuff happening in the background is as exciting as
things happening in front. I found several terrifyingly large bulls were
assembled there under the strict supervision of authorities, waiting for their
turn to be released one by one. A few others were marched into a clearing, led
by their proud owners, for a mandatory medical examination by veterinarians.
Tied to trees, a few bulls were spotted snorting and stomping their hooves restlessly.
It was an experience
I will never forget. Myself and my camera captured a few moments that I’am sure, will stay with me for the rest of my life, thanks to the policemen who
allowed me to enter the otherwise restricted area.
Next day, I read in
newspaper that nearly 50000 spectators gathered near Vadi Vaasal from various
parts of the state to watch the show. As many as 550 bulls and 1050 bull tamers
participated in the event.
As a person who has had an in-depth firsthand experience,
let me categorically state that there is nothing controvertible about
Jallikattu. I found no bulls were harmed on that day. Barring the few initial
jitters and uneasiness, they were not found frightened about venturing into the
arena. Let this sport continue.
Jallikattu Ki Jai Ho.....!
 |
| Jallikattu Ki Jai Ho.......! |
:D This fb group is followed by over 2.5 crore people...
നിന്റെ കാലുകള് ചുട്ടുപൊള്ളുന്നത് എനിക്കറിയാം. 
